Although the bazaars deal in more exotic goods, Cairo's markets provide an arresting spectacle, free of the touristy slickness that prevails around the Khan el-Khalili bazaar in Islamic Cairo. Watch how people bargain over the humblest items (often recycled from other products), a paradigm of free enterprise in the gutter. What isn't apparent are the customs, guilds and rackets that govern business, as exemplified by the vast wholesale market at Rod el-Farag, whence fruit and vegetables are distributed throughout the city. Street markets in central Cairo can be found at Bab al-Luq, halfway up Sharia Orabi, at the eastern end of Sheikh al-Rihan, and along Sharia Qalaa - all of which do business through the night, accompanied by local coffee houses. With the kilo price displayed on stalls in Arabic numerals, you shouldn't have to bargain unless they try to overcharge.

 

Elsewhere haggling is de rigueur. Promising locations are listed below.

Secondhand clothing can be found in the canto section of the Imam al-Shafi'i Market , which straggles for 1km along the road leading from Al-Basatin to the Imam's mausoleum in the El-Khalifa district. Other parts of this Friday morning market sell scrap, grain, poultry, sheep and cattle.

The Camel Market at Bil'esh.

Cairo's Bird Markets (10am-2.30pm) are named after the days on which they're held: Souk al-Hadd (Sun; Giza Station), Souk al-Gom'a (Fri; by the Salah Salem overpass, south of the Citadel) and Souk Itnayn w Khamis (Mon & Thurs; in the Abu Rish area of Saiyida Zeinab).

On Sharia el-Geish near Midan Ataba there's a daily Paper Market , selling all types of paper, dyed leather and art materials.

For fabrics (from hand-loomed silk to cheap offcuts), tools and much else, you can't beat the daily Wikalat al-Bulah , on Sharia Abu'l'lla in the Bulaq district.