Over summer you can see belly dancing and folk dances by the Rida Troupe ( Fir'et Rida) or the National Troupe ( El-Fir'a el-Qawmiyya) at the outdoor Abdel Wahab Theatre (tel 482-3637), on the Corniche east of Midan Ramleh. Nightly shows start at 9.30pm; tickets cost £E3-20, and are best reserved the day before. During summer there is also a Circus , which sets up either at Azarita near the Abdel Wahab Theatre, or at St Marks College, near the youth hostel. Performances start at 9pm, or 5pm on Fridays and Sundays; tickets cost £E8-31.

 

September normally witnesses an International Film Festival , which gives Egyptians a rare opportunity to see foreign movies in an uncensored state; every cinema in town screens a few. However, film-going is popular throughout the year, with extra showings at the Metro, Amir and Rialto cinemas (all on Safiya Zaghloul) during Ramadan. Come October, Alex holds an International Yachting Regatta (details from the tourist office), while every two years the Fine Arts Museum arranges the Alexandria Biennial , an exhibition of art from Mediterranean countries. The Helnan Palestine Hotel sometimes hosts exclusive bridge tournaments , attended by Omar Sharif.

During Ramadan, the Egyptian, Islamic side of Alex revels in five moulids over five consecutive weeks, starting with zikrs outside the Mosque of Al-Mursi. The day after its "big night", the action shifts to Sidi Gaber's Mosque, then Sidi Bishr's; followed by the moulids of Sidi Kamal and Sidi Mohammed al-Rahhal.