While diving is the main activity, Hurghada presents itself as an all-round beach resort - a claim that's quite true, but not so great as it sounds. After years of grousing by visitors, the
public beach (daily 8am-sunset; ŁE1) is at last to be transformed, from a wasteland where no foreign tourist would be seen dead, to a tidy shore lined with shops and cafes. However, to sunbathe without unwanted attention, there's really no alternative but to go for
private beaches . In Ed-Dahar, the
Shedwan, Three Corners, Geisum and
Sand Beach open their beaches to outsiders for ŁE25 (you can also use the pools at the
Shedwan and
Sand Beach). Interlopers who slip past security usually get caught on the beach because they lack the distinctive bathing mats that are issued to residents and paying guests.
Further down the coast is the cheaper option of Shellghada Beach, just north of the Sheraton, where ŁE10 buys a day on the sand, volleyball and use of their fresh-water showers. Eat at the restaurant and there is no entry charge. El Saqiaa Restaurant and Beach near the harbour offers the same deal and has a larger beach than Shellghada. The Sheraton itself has two beaches: you can sneak into the smaller Beach A via the marina, although the proximity of boats means the water here is always dirty; the larger Beach B is for residents only. Other holiday villages allow outsiders to use their beaches and swimming pools for a charge that ranges from ŁE35 at the El-Samaka to ŁE60 at the Magawish (which has the nicest beach). Admission policies may change, so phone ahead to avoid a wasted journey. Small coral reefs offshore from the Shedwan Golden Beach, Jasmin Village, Coral Beach and Lillyland offer a taste of the colourful array of fish and corals further out to sea. Buying beach or camping gear in Hurghada can be expensive; the central Government Store has a good selection at low fixed prices.
Powerful gusts make Hurghada a great place for windsurfing , especially the beaches at the Magawish and Hurghada Beach. Several holiday villages have lagoons and centres where you can rent boards and wetsuits, and some places offer windsurfing instruction. Happy Surf has branches at Three Corners (tel 065/547-816) the Sofitel (tel 065/447-261) and Magawish (tel 065/446-450); Pro Center is based at Jasmin Village (tel 065/446-450) and Habri/Friendly Surfing Center (tel 065/443-710) is at the Hurghada Beach Resort. The Arabia Tourist Village has facilities for paragliding and water-skiing . If you book one or two days ahead, Marine Sports Club (tel 065/444-861/2/3) can arrange deep-sea fishing day trips for ŁE400 per boat (6-8 people) including equipment. For a few hours' snorkelling , try Prince Sea Trips (tel 065/549-882) at the Four Seasons in Ed-Dahar. Run by friendly Bedouin brothers who grew up in Hurghada, they charge just ŁE30 if you book with them direct, rather than the ŁE50-60 charged by most of the operators and commissioned agents around town.
The Aquarium, Sindbad Submarine and Aquascope
If you want a glimpse of the Red Sea's wonders without getting wet, visit the newly-renovated
Red Sea Aquarium (daily 9am-11pm; ŁE10, camera ŁE5) on the Corniche. Its tanks are labelled in English, with diagrams of where to find each species on the reef. You can learn to recognize wrasses, triggerfish, sailfintangs, angelfish and many other types, but it's sad to see them in such cramped conditions when you know that millions of others are swimming freely not far away.
Alternatively, there's the much-hyped Sindbad Submarine (US$50, kids $25), which can convey you to depths of 22m in comfort. Disappointingly, however, the trip is more of a photo-opportunity than anything else. Half the time is spent getting to and from the sub's mooring offshore from the Sindbad Beach Resort, and after submerging a diver swims alongside trailing bait to attract wrasses, groupers and parrotfish past the portholes. You'd do better to go on an introductory dive - but if the sub still appeals, bookings can be made at the Sindbad (tel 065/444-688) or other holiday villages.
Another window on the underwater world is open to you on board Aquascope ($40), a sort of new-age glass-bottom boat. The two-hour trip leaves from the Royal Palace Hotel (tel 065/446-906) and includes a fifty-minute tour of the coral reefs. A more traditional glass-bottom boat experience can be had on the Red Sea Dolphin (10am & 3pm; 2hr; US$39 including drinks), which is based at the Inter-Continental.
