American Express Supposedly has an agent beside the garage on Tariq en-Nasr, but they'll only report stolen cards, and don't seem interested in expanding their range of services.
Banks Of the two close together on Tariq en-Nasr, the Banque Misr (daily 9am-9pm) has an ATM outside and gives cash advances on Visa and MasterCard, while the National Bank of Egypt (Sun-Thurs 8.30am-2pm & 6-9pm, Fri 9-11am & 2-5pm) takes travellers' cheques. Money transfers can be arranged through Federal Express or Thomas Cook.
Books and newspapers The Red Sea Bookshop on Tariq en-Nasr, near the bus station, and Abdoui's Internet Café and Bookshop at the Corniche end of the strip, have the best selection.
Car rental CRC Rent-a-Car (tel 065/442-116), next to Thomas Cook in Sigala, is one of the cheapest national companies and charges US$45 per day for a Peugeot 106. Limo 1, at the Inter-Continental (tel 065/446-903, fax 446-931) has Mazdas from $29 per day or a 4WD Lada Niva at $45. Hertz (tel 065/442-884), opposite EgyptAir in New Hurghada, tends to have older cars, while Budget (tel 065/442-261) at the Sofitel and Marriott has some of the newest ones, and is the only company to offer unlimited mileage with a three-day package. Other companies worth considering are Europcar (tel 065/443-660) based at the Royal Palace; Avis (tel 065/447-400) which has a good range of 4WD's; and Thrifty at the Melia Pharoah (tel 065/446-723) and Conrad International (tel 065/443-250).
Federal Express In Sigala (daily 8am-6pm; tel 065/442-444). Costly, fast and reliable worldwide express mail service. Can also wire money.
Hospitals The general hospital in Ed-Dahar (tel 065/546-814) and the private El-Saffa on El-Nasr St, (tel 065/546-965) have improved but the best medical treatment is available at the private hospital in El-Gouna (tel 549-709 ext. 2201/2; emergencies ext. 2200), or El-Salam hospital (tel 065/548-790) in Arabia Village Hotel. Less serious complaints can be treated by physicians on call at holiday villages, or check the listings in the Hurghada Bulletin. Diving emergencies can be dealt with either at El-Gouna Hospital or Hurghada's new Naval Hyperbaric & Emergency Medical Centre (tel 065/549-525 or 544-195) near the harbour.
Internet cafés These are sprouting up in Hurghada and there should be one within walking distance of your hotel. Papa's (daily 10am-midnight; tel 065/445-230, papasicc@red-sea.com; £E16 per hr), next to Papa's Bar in Sigala also offers international phone and fax services at competitive rates; Aboudi Internet Café, just along from the Four Seasons (daily 10am-midnight; tel 065/547-089, kassem@hurghada.ie-eg.com; £E25 per hr), also has an Internet phone service and can do scanning and printing.
Laundry Stop-Shop (daily 8am-8pm; tel 065/446-609), off Tariq en-Nasr, 300m south of the bus station, charges 50pt-£E4 an item. Most hotels can have your washing sent out for £E2-8 per piece.
Passport office Entrance on the left side of the prominently signposted Red Sea Security Department building, 2km past the Esh-Shahid Mosque (Sun-Thurs 8am-2pm; tel 065/446-727).
Permits It's hard to obtain permits to travel south beyond Mersa Allam if you want to stay overnight. Put your case to the most senior English-speaking officer you can find at the Red Sea Security Department ( not the passport office) and hope that he'll set the ball rolling. Don't be surprised if you're treated with suspicion and given the runaround for days.
Pharmacies There are several on Sharia Abdel Aziz Mustafa and Tariq en-Nasr. You can also find pharmacies outside the hospitals. Good Luck Bazaar, in the arcade outside the Sand Beach, sells imported condoms.
Police The Ed-Dahar office (tel 122) is on Tariq en-Nasr, out towards the passport office; the branch in Sigala (tel 065/442-485) is near the main intersection. Little or no English is spoken at either; both are open 24 hours. Visitors might be disturbed to overhear suspects being beaten up on the premises.
Post office On Tariq al-Nasr, 200m north of the bus station (daily except Fri 8am-2pm). Has direct-dial phones and Express Mail Service.
Telephone calls Direct-dial phones in the 24-hour centraal on Tariq al-Nasr, and at several points on the street; phonecards are sold at the centraal. If you're prepared to pay premium rates, many hotels and shops in the bazaar advertise international lines that may result in speedier connections. A new centraal is due to open in Sigala, just south of McDonald's.
Thomas Cook In Sigala (daily 9am-2pm & 6-9pm; tel & fax 065/443-500). Offers all usual services including Moneygrams, and also handles MasterCard emergencies.
Tourist police Next to the tourist office in Ed-Dahar (24hr; tel 065/546-765).
Working Distinctly feasible if you have diving qualifications (Divemaster upwards) or foreign languages (especially Japanese or Russian). Hotels and dive centres need people to work at reception or drum up clients. Ask other foreigners working here which firms are dodgy, and don't hand over your passport lightly - the biggest sharks aren't found in the Red Sea. Do not invest any money in Hurghada.
