The Red Sea offers some of the finest diving and snorkelling in the world, accessible to most travellers at a fraction of the cost of reaching the Seychelles or the Great Barrier Reef. It's also a cheap place to learn open-water diving and gain a PADI or CMAS certificate, entitling you to dive anywhere in the world (NAUII, SSI or MDEA are less widely accepted). You must have an internationally recognized
certificate in order to rent (or fill)
scuba diving tanks, though other gear can be rented without one.
Many people visit Sinai simply to acquire this on diving courses . The initial step is a five-day open-water (OW) course, costing US$280-330 (plus US$30 for the certificate). Most centres offer a supervised introductory dive (US$40-50) for those uncertain about shelling out for a full course. If you're certified but haven't logged a dive in the past three months, they may insist on a trial dive before taking you on sea trips. Qualified divers can progress through advanced open-water (AWOD), dive master and instructor certification, and take specialized courses in underwater rescue, night or wreck diving (to name but a few that are available).
When choosing a diving centre , the main considerations should be the quality of the instructors and the state of the equipment. Linguistic misunderstandings can be dangerous, so you need an instructor who speaks your language well. Ask to see a card proving that he or she is qualified to teach the course (PADI, NAUI or whatever), and not merely a dive master. Amazingly, diving centres in Egypt were virtually unregulated until 1996, and there is still some question over how well the new laws are being enforced. Though centres associated with big hotels are safer bets than outfits on their own, smart premises are less important than the equipment . If left lying about, chances are it'll also be poorly maintained. Also notice the location of the compressor, used to fill the tanks; if it's near a road or other source of pollution, you'll be breathing it in underwater. Ask around and then stick to the dive centres that have been there the longest and have proper links with organizations like PADI. Remember that with diving, there is no substitute for a good training and safety record.
Broadly speaking, most dive centres in Sharm el-Sheikh and Nuweiba are fine. In Dahab, however, regulations are less likely to be adhered to and competition between dive centres is cutthroat, encouraging some divers to simply go for the cheapest option. One famous Dahab dive site, the Blue Hole , is entirely unsuitable for inexperienced divers - having claimed the lives of several people in recent years.
Diving centres are detailed under each resort, while dive sites are summarized in one section. The type of diving and the degree of experience required are mainly determined by underwater topography and currents. Around Sharm el-Sheikh and Na'ama Bay, the chief activity is boat diving (you enter the water offshore) at sites ranging from novice-friendly to demanding. Up the coast past Dahab and Nuweiba this gives way to shore diving , where you wade or swim out to the reefs. Some slope gently out to sea while others drop off sharply; the deeper the drop-off the richer the variety of corals and fish. Liveaboards are vessels that allow you to spend days or weeks at sea, cruising the dive spots in the Tiran Strait or the Gulf of Suez. During quiet periods, bookings can be arranged at short notice in Sharm, Na'ama or Shark Bay, but to be sure of what you're getting it's best to book in advance through an agent.
Snorkelling is also great fun and costs much less to get into. If you're planning to do a lot, it's cheaper to buy your own gear in Cairo or Israel than to rent it from dive shops in Sinai (you might be able to sell it when you leave). Coral reefs and spiny urchins can rip unprotected feet to shreds; in all events you should only walk in designated "corridors" to protect the corals - if the water is too shallow to allow you to float above them. However cool the water may feel, the sun's rays can still burn exposed flesh (water magnifies the effects of ultraviolet), so always wear a T-shirt and use waterproof sunscreen.
Always remember that reefs are very fragile, so the fundamental rule is: look but don't touch . In areas protected by law, you are forbidden to feed the fish, or remove anything from the sea. Don't buy aquatic souvenirs , the export of which is illegal. Tourists can help by boycotting stores selling them, and telling the shopkeepers why.
Sinai dive sites
Amphoras Between Ras Umm Sidd and Na'ama Bay. Named after a Turkish galleon laden with amphoras of mercury, that lies on the reef - the site is also known as "Mercury".
Blue Hole 8km north of Dahab. The challenge of this 80-metre-deep hole in the reef is to swim through a passage 60m down and come up the other side - which is highly risky even for expert divers. You can safely snorkel around the rim of the hole, however.
Canyon Near the Blue Hole. A narrow reef crack, 50m deep, which is only for experienced divers.
El-Gharkana A luxuriant reef, offshore from mangroves and lagoons with rare waterfowl and flora. Part of the Nabeq protected area.
El-Muqeibila 25km south of Taba. A lovely diving beach stretching 15km from Mersa el-Muqeibila to Ras el-Burqa, often within walking distance of the main road.
Fjord 10km south of Taba. A picturesque cleft with underwater reefs, overlooked by the Salima motel and restaurant.
Gordon Reef Off the coast of Ras Nasrani, in the shipwreck-littered Tiran Strait. Sharks and strong currents. Popular with experienced divers; not for beginners.
Jackson Reef A much larger reef between Tiran Island and the mainland, with a 70-metre drop-off, sharks and pelagic fish, and the shipwreck Lara. Strong currents; dangerous for beginners.
Maagana Beach 5-10km north of Tarabeen. The reef falls sheer around the "Devil's Head" to the north, getting shallower and less impressive further south.
Near, Middle and Far Gardens 1-5km north of Na'ama Bay. A series of lovely coral reefs, for easy diving and snorkelling. The Near Gardens are within walking distance of Na'ama.
Pharaoh's Island Near Taba. Superb underwater scenery and strong currents; a diving guide is recommended. Israelis call it "Coral Island". Easy access by boat.
Ras Abu Galum 50km south of Nuweiba. A protected area with a deep virgin reef wall and great fish. Access by 4WD or boat.
Ras Atantur Between Dahab and Sharm el-Sheikh. Colourful, abundant reef, with a shipwreck - the Maria Schroeder - 10km further south. Access by 4WD.
Ras el-Mamleh 20km south of Nuweiba. Another slab of virgin reef wall on the northern edge of the Ras Abu Galum Protected Area. Access by 4WD or boat.
Ras Mohammed National Park 25km southwest of Sharm el-Sheikh. Wonderful corals, mangrove lagoons, anemone gardens and crevice pools, with shark reefs offshore. The wrecks of the Dunraven and the Thistlegorm lie further out towards El-Tor.
Ras Nasrani Sheer reef wall riddled with shark caves; the Light and the Point are notable spots. Beware of sharks and strong currents. Not for inexperienced divers.
Ras Umm Sidd Within walking distance of Sharm el-Sheikh. Exquisite fan corals and fish. Up the coast towards Na'ama are other popular sites like Turtle Bay, Amphoras, and The Tower.
Shark Bay Colourful reef just off the beach of a small resort, 10km north of Na'ama Bay. Good for novices and experienced divers alike; snorkellers too.
Southern Oasis Gently sloping reef to the south of Dahab City. Easy diving and snorkelling.
Sun Pool 10-15km from Taba. A gorgeous diving beach extending as far north as the Fjord.
The Tower South of Na'ama Bay. Sheer reef pillar dropping 60m. Easy access from the beach and mild currents; good for novice divers.
Tiran Island Protected Area An archipelago with over 20 dive sites, all amazing. Sharks and strong currents; only for experienced divers unless explicitly stated otherwise.
Turtle Bay Between Ras Umm Sidd and Amphoras. Shallow bay with turtles, easy to enjoy. Access by boat.
Coral reefs and tropical fish
Created by the same tectonic stresses that formed the Dead Sea and East African Rift Valley, the Red Sea basin is over three kilometres deep in places, yet effectively separated from the Indian Ocean by an underwater "sill" at Bab el-Mandab, roughly 100m below the surface. Circulation between the Red Sea and the Gulf of Aqaba is similarly limited by the 200-metre-deep Tiran Strait, although the gulf itself attains depths of 1830m. As neither is fed by rivers and their rate of evaporation far exceeds any rainfall, both are exceptionally warm and salty - providing an ideal environment for tropical fish and coral reefs.
It's the warmth of the Red Sea water that is responsible for the Sinai's particular brilliance of coral - a revelation if you have previously snorkelled in such places as Hawaii or the Caribbean, whose reefs will ever after seem dull by comparison
