Though most tourists are initially attracted by Sinai's beaches and reefs, even a brief trip into the interior should prove a memorable experience that'll whet your appetite for more.
Inland safaris range from half-day excursions by jeep or camel to fully fledged treks lasting up to two weeks. Travelling by jeep is obviously faster and makes little or no demands on your physique, but tends to distance you from the landscape and at the worst can reduce the experience to a mere outing. This is rarely the case if you travel by camel , which feels totally in keeping with the terrain. If you've never ridden a camel before, try a half-day excursion before committing yourself to a longer trip. Even a few hours in the saddle can leave you with aches in muscles that you never knew existed. It's easy to get the hang of steering: pull firmly and gradually on the nose rope to change direction; a camel should stop if you turn its head to face sideways. Couching the animal - this entails thrusting one's face close to its muzzle and growling " kkhhurr, kkhhurr " - is best left to the Bedouin guides.
Safaris can be organized at any of the resorts on the Aqaba coast; you'll find details and prices listed under each resort. For those with more time and stamina, a third option is to go trekking on foot , which is the most rewarding way to experience remote areas. Treks can be arranged at the village of St Catherine's or at certain points along the roads into the interior, such as Sheikh Hamid - and also through some of the Bedouin who run trips from the coastal resorts. The list of destinations is by no means all-inclusive, but should give an idea of what's on offer.
Practicalities depend on one's destination and mode of travel. Day excursions from the coast can be made on a Sinai-only visa, but to travel for any longer or explore the High Mountain Region beyond the immediate vicinity of St Catherine's Monastery and Mount Sinai you must have a proper Egyptian visa . To climb mountains you must also have a permit from the police, which can be obtained by your Bedouin guide. It is illegal - and highly risky - to go trekking without a guide. To help you select destinations and plot routes, buy the 1:250,000 Sinai Map of Attractions published by the Israeli firm Tzofit, which is sold at the main resorts on the coast. Other things to bring are listed in the "High Mountain Region and Feiran Oasis" section.
Finally, respect the landscape and leave it unspoiled. Bring plastic bags to remove your rubbish when you go and burn any toilet paper left behind. Gathering firewood should be left to your guide, and gardens should never be entered without permission from the owners.
Safari destinations
Ain el-Furtaga 16km from Nuweiba by road. Palmy oasis at the crossroads of trails to the Coloured Canyon, Wadi Ghazala and Ain Khudra Oasis.
Ain Khudra Oasis One of the loveliest oases in Sinai. Reached by hiking from the St Catherine's road, with help from local Bedouin, or from the south by 4WD.
Ain Kid Oasis 14km off the road between Sharm el-Sheikh and Dahab; reached via Wadi Kid, a red-walled canyon where a spring appears in rainy years. The oasis has a fresh-water well.
Ain Umm Ahmed Another beautiful oasis, accessible by 4WD or camel from Bir es-Sawa. Can serve as a base for climbing expeditions to Ras el-Qalb.
Arched Canyon Sinuous gorge that's only accessible on foot; drop-off and pick-up by 4WD from Ain el-Furtaga or Bir es-Sawa.
Bir es-Sawra Small oasis with a spring issuing from a cave, beside the El-Thammed road.
Blue Valley 5km from St Catherine's. Canyon painted blue by a Belgian artist.
Coloured Canyon North of Ain el-Furtaga. Two rainbow-hued canyons, great for walking or rock-climbing (no water). One of the most popular day trips from Nuweiba.
El-Haduda The biggest sand dune in eastern Sinai, reached from Sheikh Hamid.
Feiran Oasis Over 12,000 palm trees, monastic remains, and access to Jebel Serbal. Wadi Feiran may have been the route taken by the Israelites to reach Mount Sinai.
Forest of Pillars Unique natural phenomenon on the cliffs of Jebel el-Tih, to the east of Sarabit el-Khadim. Access by 4WD or camel only; guide essential.
Jebel Sabah A 2280m peak from which Saudi Arabia and mainland Egypt are visible on clear days. Experienced climbers only, with abundant food and water. Permit required.
Jebel Serbal Near Feiran Oasis. One of the loveliest mountains in Sinai, with ruined chapels lining the trail to the summit (2070m). No climbing skills needed, but guide and permit required.
Jebel Umm Shaumar The second highest peak in Sinai, whose summit (2854m) affords a view of the entire southern horn of the peninsula. Experienced climbers only. Permit required.
Nuwamis Prehistoric site with 5550-year-old graves and inscriptions. Reached on foot (2hr 30min) from Sheikh Hamid, by appointment only.
Ras el-Qalb Isolated mountain (999m) associated in Bedouin folklore with the monster Ula. For climbers only; no water. Permit required.
Sarabit el-Khadim Hilltop temple overlooking the Gulf of Suez, with ancient turquoise mines and inscriptions in the surrounding valleys. Access by 4WD, then on foot.
Sheikh Hamid Bedouin settlement on the road to St Catherine's, 7km from the Dahab-Nuweiba road. Starting point for walking or camel treks to Ain Khudra, Nuwamis, El-Haduda, and remoter destinations (up to two weeks).
Wadi Ghazala Links Ain el-Furtaga and Ain Khudra Oasis. Acacia groves, dunes and gazelles.
Wadi Huweiyit North of Nuweiba. Colourful canyon with typical desert flora; easy hiking.
Wadi Mandar 40km north of Sharm el-Sheikh. Bedouin camel races occur here on January 1.
Wadi Naseb Running down from Mount Catherine towards Dahab, the verdant upper reaches of the wadi are inhabited by Bedouin. 4WD essential.
