" Alarm clock . Vital for early-morning buses.

 

" Clothes . Keep both practicality and sensitivity in mind. As emphasized in "From a Woman's Perspective", Egypt is a deeply conservative nation; the more modest your dress the less hassle you will attract.

On the practicalities front, bear in mind that northern Egypt can be cold and damp in the winter, while the desert gets freezing at night, even in the spring and autumn. A warm sweater is invaluable. So, too, are a solid pair of shoes: burst pipes are commonplace, and wandering around muddy streets in sodden sandals is a miserable experience.

" Cool bottle . Keeps juice or water at a refreshing temperature on those long desert journeys.

" Earplugs . Help muffle the noise of videos on long-distance buses and trains, if you're trying to sleep.

" Film . Kodak and Fuji film is available in most towns and major resorts, but it may well be pretty old stock. It's best to bring adequate supplies. For photography in dark alleyways, tombs and hidden corners, fast film (400-800 ASA) is useful. If you're looking for good landscape photographs, slow film (and/or getting out of bed early) is a must.

" Plug . If you like your water to fill a basin, it is worth remembering to pack an omnisize plug: few hotels (even relatively upmarket ones) supply such equipment.

" Sleeping bag . A decent bag is invaluable if you're planning to sleep out in the desert in spring or autumn, or in any low-budget hotel over winter. In the summer, a sheet sleeping bag is handy if you're staying at cheaper hotels.

" Snaps of your family, home town, football team (or whatever) help bridge the language barrier. Locals will proudly show you their own.

" Torch . For exploring dark tombs, and use during power cuts.

" Water-boiler . Plug-in models, sold in Egypt, are good for making your own hot drinks.