Wadi Natrun makes a memorable
day excursion from Alex or Cairo, but a few caveats are in order. Getting within striking distance requires little effort, time or cash, but reaching more than one or two of the monasteries can be difficult without using rented vehicles.
Visiting hours vary from monastery to monastery, as does the extent to which each closes during the five seasons of fasting : 43 days before the Nativity, 3 days in commemoration of Jonah in the Whale, 55 days preceding Lent, the fast of the Holy Apostles (from Pentecost to July 12), and 15 days marking the Assumption of the Virgin Mary (Aug 7-22). Deir Anba Bishoi alone is open every day of the year; Deir al-Suryani and Deir el-Baramus have regular opening times but close during most of the feasts; while Deir Abu Maqar will only admit those with a letter of introduction from the Coptic Patriarchate in Cairo (next to the Cathedral of St Mark, 222 Sharia Ramses, Abbassiya; tel 02/282-5374 or 284-3159) or Alexandria (in the Cathedral of St Mark on Rue d'Iglise du Copte; tel 03/483-5522). The Patriarchate can verify the opening dates of specific monasteries. Fridays, Sundays and public holidays are best avoided when visiting any of the monasteries as they are often swarmed by Coptic pilgrims from all over Egypt.
Male tourists interested in staying the night in a monastery must get written permission from the appropriate "residence" in Cairo: Deir Anba Bishoi (tel 591-4448); Deir al-Suryani (tel 590-5161); Deir el-Baramus (tel 592-2775); Deir Abu Maqar (tel 770-614). As other guests are devout pilgrims, you should make at least a token effort to attend prayers, and leave a donation in return for the tea and bread that's provided. Women are not allowed to sleep in any of the monasteries. Otherwise, there are several swanky motels (£E65-150 / US$20-50) along the Desert Road, near the turn-off for Wadi Natrun.
Getting there
Unless you rent a car, or take a taxi (£E100-150 depending on how many monasteries you visit), reaching the monasteries is a two-stage process. The best way of
getting there from Cairo is by the West Delta buses that leave from the Aboud terminal (hourly 6.30am-6.30pm; £E3). Tickets are bought on the bus, which terminates at Bir Hooker, where you should be able to catch a pick-up (50pt) to Deir Anba Bishoi. Otherwise, you can get a
service taxi from Cairo (Aboud terminal) or Alex (Midan el-Gumhorriya) to the
Wadi Natrun Resthouse on the Desert Road - a bunch of motels, gas stations and cafés where non-express inter-city buses also stop. From here, you can negotiate a private taxi ride to the nearest monastery (£E5 one-way), or hope to be offered a lift by one of the busloads of Coptic pilgrims that come this way.
Returning to Cairo or Alex by bus or service taxi from the Resthouse, you'll probably have to pay the full inter-city rate. There are hourly buses to Cairo until 7pm; departures for Alex are fewer and further between, with perhaps only two buses in the afternoon, when people are most likely to be leaving having visited the monasteries.
